Releases

General discussion about the sport of hang gliding
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Tad Eareckson
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

http://www.hanggliding.org/viewtopic.php?t=21631
split-bridle AT setup - where to buy & how to setup?
andyh - 2011/04/22 22:36:26 UTC
London

My local AT group will only do conversions with chest releases, which means fairly high performance gliders are required not to have huge bar pressure on tow - my Sting2 would struggle with our high tug speeds on chest release (well, the glider would be fine, but I would struggle)

Is there anywhere that I can buy a split-bridle setup - as, I think, is mostly used in the US, at least for lower performance gliders?

I am willing to take a hit on buying from the US, if required - do Wallaby/Quest sell this sort of stuff?

Is there any dark art to setting up a split-bridle system, or is it just a case of hooking it around the keel at the hangpoint?

CP Hill; CP Tow
Airborne Sting2 XC 175
The Quallaby stuff is expensive, dangerous junk.

Get one from Canada - Joe Street:
racingthecloudsatgmaildotcom
Infinitely better that the spinnaker shackle crap at a tiny fraction of the cost.
Dennis Wood - 2011/04/22 23:38:23 UTC
Suffolk, Virginia

purt nigh any place what does aero tow should be able to provide the other 3+ meter or so length of line and an upper release, such as the one at Lockout Mtn Flight Park, or even on Oz report. should not be any problem for you to find the needed pieces.
Yeah, they pretty much all use and sell expensive dangerous junk - although the Lockout job doesn't suck anywhere near as much as the Florida garbage.
Paul Edwards - 2011/04/23 00:40:31 UTC
Tennessee

I can only say for certain that Lookout Mountain sells what you're looking for.
Yeah if you want something six times as heavy and expensive with half the reliability.
Adi Branch - 2011/04/23 08:12:20 UTC
UK

Yep, I had to order a brake lever release (which is essentially what you're after)...
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES do you want ANYTHING with a brake lever.
...from Wallaby or Quest (I can't remember which...
It was Wallaby - the second worst choice.
I tried both but only one came through with the goods and a definitive dispatch date).

Cost after shipping to the UK was about 125 pounds, I think.
I think it was 240 - but I can't find the post.
This should be all you need, plus the tow webbing with a good loop, and a good bridle leader (nothing which can snag in the loop as it pulls through... this is pretty important).
There's no two point bridle on the planet that you can guarantee won't wrap. Get the best you can but assume it will. (I make the best - if you're interested.)
Oh, and don't forget there will be a degree of experimentation with the upper tow point... too far forward and you won't come off the trolley... too far back and pitch pressure will be too high.
If it's on the keel it won't be "too high" - just uncomfortable. If you don't know how people are doing the trim point for that glider behind that tug start a couple of inches fore of the hang point and experiment. Err aft.
Make sure you get someone experienced to set it up for you initially.
Screw experience. Just use or get half a brain or better.
Perhaps take a trip up to Airways and do the conversion up there?.. It's more expensive but the first two or three tows will be on tandem. Having been to other tow groups, I'm not entirely confident of their setup and experience, in all honesty.
And check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aerotowrelease/sets/72057594141352219/
especially for the secondary stuff.
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Tad Eareckson
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

http://www.hanggliding.org/viewtopic.php?t=21631
split-bridle AT setup - where to buy & how to setup?
Diev Hart - 2011/04/23 08:35:31 UTC

looks like they are selling a new type....at lookout eshop...

Image
http://estore.hanglide.com/Aerotow_Primary_Release_p/14-9004.htm

you can get it all right now from here....

http://estore.hanglide.com/category_s/2.htm
And you can read the owner's manual - the one Matt won't let you see before you buy it because it tells you what a total piece of shit it is - here:

http://www.kitestrings.org/post41.html#p41
(same thing pjwings just said)
And do make sure you order a hook knife along with it. You'll probably need it once out of every four or five tows.
Adi Branch - 2011/04/23 12:35:23 UTC

I like those, but there's two things that concern me with them...

- You can't move your hand to reposition it should you want to on the tow.
I've never had or had any need or desire to move my hand on tow (and extremely rarely not on tow).
- In a high pressure situation, for example a lockout or a situation where you had to release whilst pulling on a lot of pitch, you temporarily have to lift and move your hand off the bar !!! Not sure I'd want to do that in a low release situation.
No, you've just gotta slide it inboard. Granted, it's not ideal, but you can keep the bar back while you're doing it.
With a brake lever release, you don't have to move your hand at all.
1. But you may hafta move your wheels a good bit - like off the basetube and into the gear bag. That also can be a significant downside.
2. The lever may bottom out before anything good happens.
Bob Flynn - 2011/04/23 15:30:38 UTC
Jacksonville, North Carolina

I use the Lookout release and like it. Very little hand movement is required to actuate it.
I'm not real crazy about the idea of maybe having a hand trapped in a cable loop during a crash.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aerotowrelease/8306300488/
Image

Joe does something similar.
Plus it's easy to install and remove within a minute or two. It's also out of the way in case of a whack or pile in and it's light weight.
How 'bout we do it right and just build them into the gliders like a sane aviation culture would?
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Tad Eareckson
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

http://www.hanggliding.org/viewtopic.php?t=21631
split-bridle AT setup - where to buy & how to setup?
Bill Reynolds - 2011/04/23 19:53:24 UTC
Florida

Adi, to your second point I found the opposite to be true. With the brake lever, I had to let go of the control bar to reach over and hit the brake lever on the downtube.
And the idiot lever was on the downtube 'cause the idiot levers don't really fit on basetubes. They're not really designed for utility or safety - they're mostly designed to velcro on and off gliders.
Releasing the control bar while in a high bank (lockout) is not easy to do because you are using a lot of force with both hands trying to hold yourself to the high side to level the wing. Letting go, even with one hand, you could fall to the low side pretty hard.
No shit. Ask somebody - like Carlos - who was high enough to survive that crap when the shit hit the fan.
With the hand loop on the Lookout style release, all it takes is a quick, pretty slight movement of the hand to release. You can do this while still gripping the control bar. For me, I felt much safer with the Lookout release.

To your first point about the Lookout release, you can remove your hand from the loop and reposition it, but then you'd have to release the control bar to grab the loop and release. If you wanted a little bit of slack, you could probably get away with just having a single finger in the release loop. I think this would allow you to slide your hand a couple of inches either way and still have the ability to release quickly without letting go of the control bar.. I don't usually find a need to reposition my hand during tow, so it was never an issue.
Precisely. And looking at the well known and documented lethal downsides of the alternative...
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

http://www.hanggliding.org/viewtopic.php?t=11519
Aerotowing methods
Bill Reynolds - 2009/04/13 22:03:57 UTC

I have to tow in a head up position so my barrel releases don't rub on the base tube and accidently release. It feels squirrely like this and seems to add bar pressure.
Ryan Voight - 2009/04/13 22:22:13 UTC
Point of the Mountain

Aerotowing methods

"Pro-Tow" pros:
Yeah, definitely put that one in quotation marks.
-Simplicity. One (short) bridle attached to shoulders.
But always make it long enough to wrap at the tow ring - 'cause that's the way we've always done it. And, for good measure, make it thin too.
-Release located right in front of your face, easy to see and find (if you have a barrel on each side, the same is true for the backup release).
Right. 'Cause when the shit hits the fan you're always gonna have the time to see and find something.
-If you have a barrel on each side, it doesn't matter which hand you reach with, and you don't have to decide which hand you'll use when attaching the release (which you do have to do with the break-handle releases).
1. And, of course, no matter what hand you REACH WITH the glider will be fine 'cause you've got it set on autopilot to continue holding speed and fighting the turn.

2. BRAKE.

3. A motorcyclist has a "brake-handle" on his control bar. But a motorcycle isn't designed by idiots, the lever is at his right hand so he doesn't have/get to "decide" which, you never hear about motorcycle wrecks which occur 'cause someone couldn't reach the lever, and there are no analogous idiot discussions on motorcycle forums.
"Pro-Tow" cons:
-No help with pitch pressure. It's fine on a U2, especially at 1/2-3/4 VG, but I wouldn't want to "pro-tow" a Falcon for too long.
-If you get off to the side of the tug, the pro-tow pulls your shoulders over... I've seen a lot of people cross-control rather than get their legs over behind their shoulders.
Yep, some folk have absolutely no feel whatsoever for flying hang gliders and probably shouldn't be flying them.
V-Bridle pros:
-Helps with pitch pressures
-If you get off to the side of the tug, the v-bridle dampens how far over your shoulders get pulled (see above), but also pulls over on the glider, so you only have to do half as much correction, the other half is done for you.
-Break handle is easy to slap in an emergency, rather than locating, grabbing, and pulling a barrel release.
I tried to release but my body was off centered and could not reach the release.
Right. Never a problem slapping a BREAK handle. And it's not like you ever hafta locate it. I mean, it's right there on the downtube in the same place you put it when you were in the setup area.
V-Bridle cons:
-More bridle hanging after you release.
-More to set up before hand.
-Insignificantly more drag than "pro-tow"
Right. Insignificant. Just a glide point or so. I don't even know why they bother installing the VG actuation stuff INSIDE the downtube when they could just velcro some cable to the outside.
-Spinnaker upper release can LOOK closed, when it's not
BFD. I only know of one death catalyzed by that little shortcoming. And the passenger got off with just a concussion.
-Speed limit, tow pilots must not go to fast!*

* I was once towing behind Rhett (using a V-Bridle) and instead of waving me off at the end of the tow, he decided to play 'chase the ace' and see if I could follow. When he couldn't shake me, he began accelerating. As he sped up I pulled in more and more. As I got towards full-bar-stuff, I watched the tow line start to slide up the V-Bridle (since my AofA was now significantly lower than normal). As I pulled in more, and the line slid up the bridle farther and farther, the glider began entering violent oscillations. I slammed the release and climbed out to burn off the speed.

One time I saw someone that was used to truck towing attach his V-bridle to the nose, rather than the biner. Somehow no one noticed, and he launched. As he released from the cart his glider went into very similar oscillations, until it flipped upside down and impacted the ground.
Funny we never managed to hear about that one from the USHGA "accident" reports. Mind sharing the date and tow operation?
After my experience behind Rhett, I thought about that accident I had seen. It seems towing a glider from the nose causes it to oscillate and flip upside. I believe that, as the tow line slid up my v-bridle, it simulated the towing from the nose situation I have witnessed before.

It's only an issue if you're playing games, aerotowing at full-bar-stuff speeds... but worth mentioning...
We've got enough death and destruction going on with aerotow - mostly as a consequence of shitrigged equipment and shitheaded operators - without needing to play games, thank you very much.
Adi Branch - 2009/04/14 13:20:10 UTC

I have to ask this, in the US why is it that you still seem to be using methods such as barrel releases as the main release mech?
Because that's what the Flight Park Mafia sells. You got a problem with that?
Ryan Voight - 2009/04/13 22:25:27 UTC
I have to tow in a head up position...
Sounds like your pro-tow bridle is too short... a longer one would locate the barrel in front of the base tube.
A longer bridle will do absolutely NOTHING to relocate the release and a lot to increase the wrap potential. He needs to extend the releases and shorten the bridle.
Ryan Voight - 2009/04/13 23:27:29 UTC

But don't forget the weaklinks- one on each side!!!
Dallas Willis - 2009/04/14 00:08:15 UTC

Ryan are you serious?!?!

One weaklink on the side you don't normally release from is all you need (less wear and tear on the weaklink). 2 weaklinks = 2 chances for a weaklink to inadvertently break which is bad.
How very odd. I've never heard that weak link failure could be anything but a blessing.
If you release one side and it hangs up, the solution is to ditch the other side not rely on another weak link which is only there to prevent the glider from blowing up.
1. The only way it can hang up is if the bridle's too long - but nobody's ever gonna listen to me on that one so let's go to...

2. So the weak link is only there to prevent the glider from blowing up. So now you're locking out and there's no longer a weak link on that side so now - obviously - it's no longer important to keep the glider from blowing up. Or overloading the release.

3. Are you gonna say anything about the dual bent bin releases?

4. If the weak link is only there to prevent the glider from blowing up do you think you can use something heavier than a loop of 130 pound Greenspot that'll still blow well before the glider does? Think about this one carefully Dallas - you're a goddam aerobatics pilot ferchrisake.
Rick, most folks flying a U2 will go with just a pro-tow system. However if you don't plan on towing all that much *and* given your concerns from your other post about not wanting to take your hands off the control bar, then I'd certainly advise you to go with the "lookout" style...
And don't even consider any of the many one point options for putting an actuator in your teeth.
...2 or 3 point (depending on your definition of "point")...
Let's stop allowing individual definitions on this. Pilot only - one point. Pilot and glider - two point.
...and attach it to your carabiner. Just make sure your carabiner gate faces toward the back of your glider.
Yeah, huge danger of blowing your carabiner apart from the inside. No danger whatsoever of your locking mechanism ripping your parachute bridle to shreds.
Also you're around some great pilots in the Denver area, Jim Yockum, Joe Nance and JT will take good care of you. Trust them.
Trust NO ONE - especially great pilots.
Bill Reynolds - 2009/04/14 13:49:06 UTC

Adi, you must be asking about the black thread, which is the weak link. I have it on the left barrel. I use the right barrel to release, but can release the left if necessary. The weak link is strong enough to handle normal tow pressure but is supposed to break in a lock-out or other over-pressure, thereby letting me off the tow line without me releasing.
Yes. Tow PRESSURE.

Yes. A weak link is SUPPOSED to break in a lockout. And if you don't like all the videos and fatality reports in which they don't - hell - just ignore them.

Yes. Lockouts are always over-PRESSURE events.
Craig Hassan - 2009/04/14 14:02:26 UTC
Ohio

I don't see much of a benifit with these over the brake release. Still have to let go, maybe less failure of the components, but do the brake releases fail often? That is if you hit the lever and actuate it as opposed to knocking it off to the side.
Yeah Craig, never worry about a LITTLE failure of the components or the lever occasionally migrating to the side when you try to hit it. Chances are that when there's a fatality it'll happen to someone else.
Marco Weber (selbaer) - 2009/04/14 14:08:26 UTC
Tampa

All I have done so far is aerotowing. No winch, scooter, platform or truck, boat towing so far and the barrel looks just fine to me in its simplicity. It's pretty idiot proof.
But I've had it once where the pin had bent inside the barrel from excessive tow force. My weaklink was still intact. The tug pilot's weaklink broke so I had the rope. I had to use two hands to get the pin out of the barrel.
It's NOT idiot proof - quite the contrary 'cause only idiots use them. But don't worry - the important thing is that it LOOKS just fine to you in its (and your) simplicity.
Craig Hassan - 2009/04/14 15:10:21 UTC

The only part of my get up I change between scooter and areotow is the weak link.
Why? Does your glider break at different stresses on scooter and areo?
I use the same 2 barrel set up I always use. Keeping things familiar is more comforting to me!
Yeah, I really hope you keep things familiar so you'll always be comfortable and complacent.
It is just a barrel on each shoulder and 4' or 5' so bridal.
Yeah, keep that BRIDAL nice and long. People who spell it that way always do.
I use a weak link on the left hand side, since I release the right side 99.9% of the time.
I can hit the release without looking almost always on the first try. (Almost is not 100% and the time I really need to hit it I'll probably miss!)
That's GREAT!

Just practice with your left hand one out of a thousand tows 'cause it's almost always OK to sacrifice the control afforded by your right in any emergency situation.

And if you can almost always get it on the first stab in normal situations you should be JUST FINE when the shit hits the fan.
I also still have to let go of the base bar to activate it.
I can't really see that being a problem.
On guy took a bit of string and attached it to the rear of his barrel and holds it in his hand. All it takes is a flick of the wrist. Still has to remove his hand from the bar, but it is a much quicker release than reaching out to the barrel! ( and the pin doesn't get a chance to snap back on your thumb! OUCH! )
And don't even consider putting the other end of the string in your teeth. We do want to keep things sporting.
Here is a picture of the scooter set up (not me). I guess I was wrong I also change the length of the barrel strap. We usually scooter from a dolly with the line under the control bar, and need the extra length to keep the barrel from hitting the bar and releasing.
And of course now there's NO WAY those barrels can come into contact with the basetube. So now it's OK to keep the bent pins, short fat barrel, and flared tubing ends.
Ryan Voight - 2009/04/15 00:03:47 UTC
I have to ask this...
Why not? Simple, light weight, and foolproof. It's either closed or it's not. You give it a tug and it releases (every time).
I have never had a lockout situation happen so quickly and dramatically and had no chance to release as I have always thought I could do.
The barrel release wouldn't work because we had too much pressure on it.
But I've had it once where the pin had bent inside the barrel from excessive tow force.
Yeah, why not? It's simple, light weight, and foolproof. It's either closed - when you miss it, you're locking out and can't get to it, it has a little tension on it, or the pin has folded in half - or open - when it slides across the basetube when you're trying to pull your nose back down.
The basebar hit the ground first, nose wires failed from the impact, and at the same time she was hitting face first.
And you give it a tug and it releases (every time (almost)).
Rick Maddy - 2009/04/15 01:54:33 UTC
Denver

As for releases (based on the other thread) I will have barrel releases on both shoulders and I will most likely use the Lookout cable release. This way I can have my primary release in my hand, on the basetube. But instead of putting my hand in the loop I will most likely put a big knot on the end or some sort of disc - maybe 3/4" in diameter (or whatever size will be appropriate). Then I can just hold the knot/disc between two fingers. This will allow me to pull the release with a small movement of my hand but my hand won't be stuck in a loop.

Image

Kinda like that, Rick?
Adi Branch - 2009/04/15 09:12:19 UTC

I'm still a newbie really, I don't know a lot of things, but it does strike me that requirement or standards in the US seem to be different...
The US has no standards, Adi - just a bunch of shitheads doing whatever the hell they feel like and telling other people what they can and can't do.
Dawson - 2009/04/15 11:56:18 UTC
Lake Macquarie

Is that the kind of weaklink (Tost) in the Koch release? How does it work? Where is it?
Adi Branch - 2009/04/15 14:07:49 UTC

No, it's attached between the tow rope and V bridle...
They're very similar to this exploded view one, taken from a sailplane site... the actual weak link is the bottom two bits, the rest is just housing.

Image

Pros and cons of both types I guess. The more experienced of you may spot flaws with using these? I dunno...
The pros of the Tost weak links is they're made and tested to specific ratings and tolerances so you can use them for specific gliders and know what you have.

The pros of the 130 pound Greenspot is that its strength is whatever anyone says it is so you can use it on any one or two point bridle to put any solo glider at one G.
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Re: Releases

Post by Zack C »

Tad,

All the reports I can recall of bent pin barrel releases failing have been on tandem flights. Do you have any documented cases of the release type failing when protected by a loop of 130 lb Greenspot?

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Tad Eareckson
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

The main problem is that virtually ALL Baileys when used as primary releases ARE protected by 130.

Tandems don't tow one point and at least some of them have enough brains to use a secondary double loop which is almost guaranteed to blow after a wrap. And when they don't (Steve Wendt, Dr. Tracy S. Tillman) or it doesn't they're almost back down to normal tension a nanosecond after the jolt.

And nowadays all the idiot Dragonflies are using three stranders on the bridle to protect the idiot tow mast breakaway which is supposed to snap at about four strands (double loop) so it's unlikely that any Bailey ever sees much more direct loading than 225 pounds.

Bart Weghorst is undoubtedly flying behind a Dragonfly solo one point and must have a double loop on his bridle.

Lauren, despite the fact that she's on tandem, is our best documentation 'cause she's still in two point mode and trying to use her Bailey as a backup.

So the towline tension is 450 max and probably way less 'cause I'm having a hard time imagining a Dragonfly being able to make headway for very long with that much reverse thrust.

But let's split that with a two point bridle - 259 - and divide that by two with the secondary bridle - 129. Right about a single loop of 130 in one point mode - MAX. That requires a pull of under 21 pounds - MAX - and she can't do it. (And that's before she's destroyed her shoulder on that stupid landing "accident".) Straight pin at that tension - sorry, PRESSURE - needs six and a third pounds.

The other problems with documentation...

- Even if everyone were using thousand pound weak links the tension would seldom get very high before someone on one end or the other released - even with nasty lockouts at altitude or moderate fatal lockouts not at altitude.

- People are so acclimated to their shitrigged junk failing that reports very seldom make it to print. Damn near every weekend I flew at Ridgely I'd hear a casual reference to a Quallaby release failure. The douchebags running these operations are training people that frequent release failures are just an inevitable part of the aerotowing landscape and no BFDs 'cause, hell, that's what the weak link, backup, and hook knife are for.

Lauren's not reporting on the total failures of Quest's primary AND secondary ("backup") releases - these just happen to come up in the conversation as amusing little anecdotal details. The title of her post is:

http://www.chgpa.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3107
I have a tandem rating!!!
The first sentence is:
What a GREAT friggin' day.
And the last paragraph is:
And do any of you want to buy T-shirts to help support the women's team at the WC in Italy this year??? Let me know and I'll ship one to you.
3. If you get a Holly scenario (there was no weak link on her end but also no indication that the tension ever got high enough to blow a single loop until it was way too late) the brain doesn't survive the impact in good enough shape to tell whether an effort was made or not.

But yeah, if folk are gonna use an insanely dangerous release it's probably a good idea to protect it with an even more insanely dangerous weak link.

http://www.hanggliding.org/viewtopic.php?t=14230
pro tow set-up
Ryan Voight - 2009/11/06 18:14:30 UTC

All the more reason to use a WEAKER weaklink. If you're bending pins rather than breaking the weaklink, I have to think your weaklink is too strong (and now the pin has become the weakest link in the system Image.
Yep, Ryan, really hard to argue against that logic (especially when you're gonna get banned from the forum by one of your legions of idiot allies in another three days).
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Re: Releases

Post by Zack C »

Tad Eareckson wrote:Strength Stitching runs don't/can't drop below five 'cause then things go nonlinear. The runs start pulling through instead of blowing - and it all needs to blow for good predictability.
...
As above, the stitches are ALL loaded EVENLY and will ALL blow SIMULTANEOUSLY no matter where they are.
I'm still having some trouble with this. If I'm following you and you have a Bridle Link with two runs of four stitches each, it will break at a force of 18*8 lbs. At that force, each stitch will be loaded to its breaking point at 18 lbs.

So what happens if you add a third run with three stitches and applied 18*8 lbs of force? The expectation would be that each stitch, including the three new ones, would be seeing 18*8/11 lbs, but that can't be the case if the Link is to break at (about) the same point as before. So what force is each stitch seeing in this case? At what point does the three stitch run pull through?

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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

If I'm following you and you have a Bridle Link with two runs of four stitches each...
Nope, you're not entirely following me 'cause...
Strength Stitching runs don't/can't drop below five 'cause then things go nonlinear.
There's no such thing as 4+4=8.

07=7+3
08=8+3
09=9+3
10=5+5

In this universe the numbers one, two, and four do not exist and three equals zero. (The inhabitants have very strange left hands and the kids have lotsa trouble making it through grade school.)
So what force is each stitch seeing in this case?
The eight-run stitches are each resisting - 'cause they don't have any choice - and each is feeling an eighth of the load. The three-runners are cheating, not resisting, trying to survive, going with the flow, bending in the wind.
When I removed the bridle link from my bag today, however, I found that the leech line strings had been pulled apart a bit on one side and the floss stitching was up to the strings. I pulled the floss out to tighten it...
See? Under just half(ish) of whatever your peak towline tension for that day was they were pulling through and minimizing their effect on the equation. They were doing what they were supposed to - nothing.

Anyway... We got WAY bigger problems.

All three of my tests on your 200 pound Greenspot loops fell (slightly) below Bill's low figure.

157.5
158.3
159.0

That totally sucks.

The material you sent me is visibly different from the stuff I got from Lookout two years ago. They both squash to the same figure on the calipers (diameter-wise) and the green tracer pattern is the same but the weave seems subtly different. Hand me a sample of each and I can tell you which is which.

All my failures occurred where the Greenspot exited the bridle and I suspect Bill was using larger diameter bridle material and that accounted for his somewhat higher average.

So let's call this weak link 158. Your towline tension maxes out at 275. That totally sucks. One and a half Gs for your Sport 2 155 is 465. That puts your primary weak link at 267. I've tested a loop of 205 (5/64 inch) Dacron leechline on two thousand pound Spectra at 262. That's your ticket. For the time being I'd use that if you have it or a double loop of 130 if you don't in conjunction with your Number 12 Bridle Link to get you by.

Lemme know what you wanna do. I've got miles of 205 and can do the testing on your bridle material and can set you up with a couple of secondary configuration Bridle Links - Nines, no doubt.

Regarding the loops you sent me...

The Fisherman's Knots were good. (You do them the mirror image of mine.) But you used half again as much material as you should have for that bridle and primary release. Not that big a deal but the longer you make them the more opportunity you're giving them to tie a knot when they get to the tow ring. 140 millimeters is the length you should cut for this stuff (which just became obsolete).

P.S. I can tell the difference between my 200 pound Greenspot and yours blindfolded. The stuff from my stash is harder and flatter.
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Re: Releases

Post by Zack C »

Tad Eareckson wrote:Nope, you're not entirely following me 'cause...
Strength Stitching runs don't/can't drop below five 'cause then things go nonlinear.
Oops...I was thinking three was the cut-off. OK, two five-stitch runs should be equivalent to one ten-stitch, right?

I'm really puzzled about the Greenspot. This makes me question the breaking strength of every piece of string we use for weak link material. Maybe the whole 'you have to test every new batch of line' thing is valid after all...

205 leechline is pretty thick stuff compared to the Greenspot. You said earlier:
And when you start using thicker line you start getting bigger Fisherman's Knots and those don't help bridle ends feed through things smoothly.
Is the 205 thickness an issue?

At any rate, I think I'm good for the time being. Presumably the weak link already installed on the bridle you sent me is from your Lookout stash and breaks at 200, and you say these things don't degrade, so I should be fine for a while. If I do replace it I can use two loops of 130 and get a comparable breaking strength (I think...two loops of 130 breaks around 200, right?).

I really wanted the 200 Greenspot to work out ('specially since I bought 300 yards of the stuff...) as I wouldn't have to worry about getting harassed over it.

Zack
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Tad Eareckson
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Re: Releases

Post by Tad Eareckson »

OK, two five-stitch runs should be equivalent to one ten-stitch, right?
Yeah. When you're doing five minimums things stay pretty linear.
I'm really puzzled about the Greenspot.
I don't understand that. There's no freakin' way that's 200 pound test. It's like 23 percent over the 130. Too bad 'cause if it really were a consistent two hundred that would've been a fairly useful material for hang gliding. 200 - read 160 - doesn't do us much good - especially three hundred yards of it.
Maybe the whole 'you have to test every new batch of line' thing is valid after all...
Nah, it's still pretty much bullshit 'cause the idiots that tend to stress that issue are all shooting for 0.60 Gs and terrified of the idea of anybody making it all the way up to 0.65.

http://ozreport.com/3.066
Weaklinks
Davis Straub - 1999/06/06

A few weeks later I was speaking with Rhett Radford at Wallaby Ranch about weaklinks and the issue of more powerful engines, and he felt that stronger weaklinks (unlike those used at Wallaby or Quest) were needed. He suggested between five and ten pounds of additional breaking strength.
This situation is a bit aberrant but now that we've tested it I'll betchya I can tell what a spool's gonna do just by comparing a sample to the two flavors I've got. And it's a no brainer just looking at and/or feeling the stuff.

And I think the 130, as useless as it is, has a pretty good record for being where it's supposed to be - at least until the cart starts rolling.

This isn't a "batch" thing. At some point they changed something in their manufacturing process and my call is that all spools of "200" after such and such a date are gonna be consistent.

And as we both well know... NONE of these asshole flight park operators EVER tests ANYTHING. A single loop of 130 is 260 pounds. A double is 520. Obviously.
205 leechline is pretty thick stuff compared to the Greenspot.
Yeah. And I'm starting to think that's a good thing 'cause I'm now feeling that I can trust it a lot more. I did test it on your eighth inch AmSteel bridle material yesterday and got 256, 256, and 260. (Use a cut length of 150 millimeters.)
You said earlier...
Yeah, I know.
Is the 205 thickness an issue?
Compared to the bulges from the eye splices in conventional flight park bridles? I doubt it's a blip on the radar. (But it would be a real good idea not to try to feed it through a sailmaker's thimble.)

It's at the extreme end of the bridle and I'm having a hard time seeing how it could possibly be a problem. There's obviously nothing beyond you could use to tie a knot and I doubt it could interfere with the run of bridle heading away from the tow ring while it's heading towards. I wouldn't worry about it and - with a proper secondary weak link - bridle wraps don't scare me much anyway. I'd MUCH rather have a wrap than a weak link failure (as long as I get the bridle back anyway).

Bridle wrap is the one thing in towing that you can't ground test for very easily - but with a little common sense you can design against it reasonably well. (Somebody even more anal than I am with a lot of enthusiasm, time, energy, and heavy bungee could do pretty good simulations.)
If I do replace it I can use two loops of 130 and get a comparable breaking strength (I think...two loops of 130 breaks around 200, right?).
I wouldn't do that without swapping in a Number Twelve Bridle Link. I've gotten pretty consistent blows very close to 200 but I would have to assume that if that thing seated such that the loops were loaded perfectly evenly it could go to 280.
...as I wouldn't have to worry about getting harassed over it.
PLEASE... You gotta be the one doing the harassing. You KNOW that ALL of the 130 pounders are dangerous total morons. Wear your 205 leechline with pride and an air of superiority - if you want I can send you a batch dyed International Orange. Carry a three by five card with the relevant USHGA AT reg...
The weak link at the glider end must have a breaking strength that will break before the towline tension exceeds twice the weight of the hang glider pilot and glider combination.
...on one side and:
Go fuck yourself.
on the other. And ask how well the Bailey release of your antagonist holds up under the rules.

http://ozreport.com/12.081
Weaklinks - the HGFA rules
Davis Straub - 2008/04/22 14:47:00 UTC
Weaklinks will consist of a single loop of Cortland 130 lb Greenspot braided Dacron Tolling line and should be placed at one end of a shoulder bridle.
At the 2008 Forbes Flatlands Greenspot for the first time was used as the standard weaklink material (thanks in large part to the efforts of Bobby Bailey). We applaud these efforts to improve the safety of aerotowing by using a better weaklink material.
Adam Parer - 2007/07/16
Australia

Have had a weaklink break twenty feet off the ground when the wind went tailwind.
Assert your right to tow at anything you feel like up to two Gs. If you're over at your normal hook-in weight then ballast up until you max out the glider - you can dump it the second after you release.

And get Gregg to help you with this. As (former?) Towing Committee Chairman it's supposed to be his fuckin' job anyway. And every now and then his wiring starts connecting enough for a fifteen second burst of partial competence.

Late in my foot launch career when people would ask if I had had / wanted help with a hang check, I'd tell 'em "Thanks, but I don't do hang checks." And they don't do hook-in checks. I got all these horrified gasps and stares 'cause I was showing contempt for their religion. But I was the one actually following the law and not launching unhooked.

Late thought... Ya notice that - although Bill Moyes is in the thick of the aerotowing scene - we're not hearing anything from him on the issues of weak links and bent pin releases? Pretty good indication that he's every bit as clueless as Bobby.
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